Standby Power by Device Calculator (Vampire Load Audit)
Find out what your home's standby power costs — enter the vampire load in watts or tick typical devices (TV, set-top box, console, router, chargers, microwave, printer) to get kWh per year, the cost at your tariff, the share of your bill, CO₂, and which devices are worth putting on a switched strip or smart plug.
How it works
kWh per year = watts × 24 × 365 ÷ 1,000 = watts × 8.76 · cost = kWh × price · share = standby kWh ÷ annual kWh
Anything with a remote control, a clock, a network connection or an external power brick keeps drawing a little current when it is "off", and because it does so every hour of the year the arithmetic is unforgiving: one watt of continuous draw is 8.76 kilowatt-hours a year. Individually most devices are small, but a home has dozens, and a few — pay-TV boxes waiting for updates, consoles in instant-on mode, older adaptors — draw as much as a light bulb. Studies put standby at five to ten percent of residential electricity, concentrated in the entertainment corner, which is why a single switched strip there captures most of the saving while unplugging phone chargers achieves almost nothing.
Worked example
Two TVs, a set-top box, a console in rest mode, a sleeping PC, six chargers, three kitchen appliances with clocks and three always-on gadgets draw about 52 W of standby — around 450 kWh a year, $82 at $0.18/kWh and roughly 11% of a 4,000 kWh household. A switched strip on the TV corner alone would save about $43 of that.
Frequently asked questions
How do I measure it?
A plug-in power meter on each socket strip with the devices off, or read your smart meter at 3 a.m. with everything switched off except the fridge and router — the remainder is standby plus the fridge's compressor cycling.
Does unplugging chargers help?
Modern chargers draw 0.1–0.3 W idle — about 30 cents a year each. Old transformer bricks (the heavy warm ones) can draw 1–3 W and are worth unplugging.
Related calculators
Sizing rules from HVI, ASHRAE 62.2, IRC/IMC guidance and common UK/EU building-regulation values. Local codes, manufacturer data and a heat-loss survey take precedence; ventilation and heating installations may require a qualified installer.