Sweater Calculator (Cast-On from Chest & Ease, Body Rows, Yardage & Skeins)
Design a simple sweater from your gauge swatch: body stitches from chest measurement and ease, rows to the underarm and to the shoulder, sleeve cuff and upper-arm stitches with increase spacing, and the yards or metres of yarn and skeins to buy by size and yarn weight.
How it works
body stitches = (chest + ease) × sts per cm, rounded to a multiple of 4 · rows = length × rows per cm · sleeve increases = (upper-arm sts − cuff sts) ÷ 2, spaced over the sleeve rounds · yarn ≈ fabric area ÷ (stitch width × row height) × 3.4 × stitch width × 1.12
A plain sweater is arithmetic once you have a blocked swatch: the chest plus the ease you want, times stitches per centimetre, is the body; length times rows per centimetre is the row count; and the sleeve is a taper from the cuff to the upper arm with the increases spread evenly. Yarn is estimated from the fabric area — each stockinette stitch uses about three times its width in yarn — so the estimate scales correctly with your gauge instead of relying on a generic table. The table at the bottom shows how yardage shifts with size and yarn weight for the same design.
Worked example
A 96 cm chest with 8 cm of ease at 20 sts and 28 rows per 10 cm: 208 stitches around a 104 cm body, 106 rows to the underarm plus 62 rows of yoke; sleeves from 36 stitches at the cuff to 72 at the upper arm, increasing every 6 rounds over 129. About 1,120 yards of worsted weight (≈ 560 g) — six 200-yard skeins at $9 is $54.
Frequently asked questions
How much ease should a sweater have?
Classic pullovers wear 5–10 cm of positive ease at the chest; a fitted sweater 0–2 cm; relaxed and drop-shoulder designs 15–25 cm. Ribbed and highly elastic fabrics can go negative. Measure a sweater you like and compare its chest to your own.
Why round to a multiple of 4?
It keeps 2×2 ribbing continuous, splits evenly into front and back, and makes raglan or set-in shaping symmetrical. For 1×1 rib an even number is enough; for a specific stitch pattern round to its repeat instead.
My swatch gauge changed after washing — which do I use?
Always the washed and blocked gauge, because that is what the sweater will be after its first wash. Superwash wools in particular grow in length; measure rows as well as stitches.
Related calculators
Fibre-craft estimates depend on your tension, yarn, stitch pattern and blocking. Always knit or crochet a gauge swatch, wash and block it as you will the finished piece, and measure from that.