RC Propeller Pitch Speed Calculator
Theoretical top speed of an RC aeroplane or drone from propeller pitch and motor rpm (KV × voltage), real-world speed after slip, tip speed and Mach check, thrust-to-speed trade-off between pitch and diameter, and the prop that matches a target speed.
How it works
Loaded rpm = KV × pack volts × (1 − load drop); pitch speed (mph) = pitch (in) × rpm ÷ 1,056; real speed ≈ pitch speed × (1 − slip); tip speed = π × D × rpm ÷ 60; Mach = tip speed ÷ 1,125 ft/s
A propeller is a screw: in one revolution it would advance by its pitch if the air were solid, so pitch times rpm is the theoretical airspeed at which the blades stop producing thrust. Real aircraft fly 15–25% slower than pitch speed because the prop needs some slip to make thrust and the airframe has drag, and motors turn 10–20% below their unloaded KV × volts figure once a prop loads them. Pitch and diameter pull in opposite directions at a fixed motor power: a big low-pitch prop gives static thrust for climbing and hovering, a small high-pitch prop gives speed. Tip speed is the limit — beyond about Mach 0.7 blades become loud and inefficient, so fast setups use smaller diameters and higher rpm rather than ever-larger props.
Worked example
A 1,000 KV motor on 4S (14.8 V) turning a 10×6 prop: about 12,580 rpm under load, giving a 71 mph pitch speed and a realistic top speed near 57 mph; tip speed 549 ft/s (Mach 0.49) is fine. For 60 mph you would want roughly 6.3″ of pitch, or an 11×7 with a lower KV.
Frequently asked questions
Why does the plane not reach pitch speed?
It never can — thrust falls to zero there. Sleek pylon racers get to 85–90% of pitch speed, draggy trainers 60–70%; use the slip setting to match your airframe.
Does this apply to multirotors?
Pitch speed is less relevant for hover, but the tip-speed and pitch/diameter guidance does: racing quads run 5″ props with 4–5″ pitch at 25,000–30,000 rpm, close to the Mach 0.7 limit.
Related calculators
Hobby estimate from standard formulas; motor, ESC and propeller data vary by manufacturer — verify with a wattmeter and start with conservative settings.